Garden Checklist for June
June is a month full of activities in lawn and garden. Here's a suggested job list:
•Protect ripening strawberries from birds with netting.
•Thin developing fruit on fruit trees if there seems to be an excessive amount. This will result in larger fruits.
•Prune fruit trees to eliminate suckers and watersprouts.
•Plant seeds of cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli directly in the garden for fall garden transplants.
•Cabbage worms can be safely and effectively controlled with Bt or row cover fabric.
•Be sure to thin vegetables, particularly root crops, so they'll have room to grow properly.
•Tomatoes that are supported with stakes or cages tend to have fewer foliar blights and produce cleaner fruits.
•Allow the tops of spring-flowering bulbs to completely wither and turn brown.
•As perennials finish blooming, cut off the blooms and fertilize the plants.
•Stake perennials as needed.
•Apply mulches around shrubs, perennials and annuals to maintain soil moisture and an even soil temperature.
•Apply a labeled fungicide every 7 to 10 days to protect roses from black spot.
•Prune climbing roses after they have bloomed. Remove dead and older canes.
•Fertilize roses during their first bloom.
•Pinch established chrysanthemums to develop fuller and stockier plants.
•Balled and burlapped or container trees and shrubs can still be planted.
•Take softwood cuttings of shrubs to start new plants.
•Remove spent flower clusters or forming seed pods from azaleas, lilacs and rhododendrons.
•Shape the growth of pines by snapping out one half to two thirds of the new candle growth.
•Raise the mower blades to a height of 2 to 2-1/2 inches and mow frequently. Remove no more than one third of the total length of the grass blade at any one mowing.
•Move some houseplants to a screened porch or shaded location outdoors.
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Cabbage Worms
Imported cabbage worms, cabbage loopers and larvae of the diamondback moths feed on the leaves of cabbage family crops. Of these, the imported cabbage worm does the most damage to vegetables in Cleveland area gardens. Damage is large, irregular holes in the leaves of cabbage, collards, broccoli and related crops. The worms are difficult to find since they are so well camouflaged. They are usually found in the central, most tender leaves.
All of these worms are the caterpillar stage in the life cycle of butterflies and moths. The small white butterfly that gardeners see fluttering over their work is the adult stage of the imported cabbage worm.
Since the "worms" arise from eggs laid by the butterflies, one very effective and environmentally-friendly way to protect your cabbages and greens is to cover the planting at the beginning with lightweight row cover fabric. This product can be found in garden centers and mail-order gardening catalogs. It is essentially covers your crops like a blanket to protect them from flying pests. Light and water easily penetrate the fabric, and the material does not cause heat buildup around the crops.
If you must use a pesticide to control the infestation, be sure to select one labeled for both the pest and the crop. Read and follow the label directions exactly. Bt and spinosad, both organic pesticides, are extremely effective at controlling these insects at the larval stage.
For more information on cabbage worms, including other control methods, read fact sheet HYG-2201-09 : Cabbage Worms.
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Japanese Beetles
The Japanese beetle is the most abundant and important landscape pest in Ohio. This pest was detected in New Jersey in 1916, having been introduced from Japan. It is common for this pest to be abundant in one part of a town and not others. The adult beetles eat the leaves and flowers of over 300 plants by eating the tissue between the veins, a type of feeding called skeletonizing. The larvae, called white grubs, feed on plant roots and organic matter in the soil, especially under turfgrass. This feeding may result in dead patches of turf that can be picked up like a loose carpet.
The adults are a brilliant metallic green, generally oval in outline, 3/8 inch (8 to 11 mm) long and 1/4 inch (5 to 7 mm) wide. The wing covers are a coppery color and the abdomen has a row of five tufts of white hairs on each side that are diagnostic.
The larvae are typical white grubs that are C-shaped when disturbed. First instar larvae are about 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) long while the mature third instars are about 1-1/4 inch (32 mm) long.
The adult beetles normally emerge during the last week of June through July. The first beetles out of the ground seek out suitable food plants and begin to feed. These early arrivals begin to release an aggregation pheromone (odor) that attracts additional adults. Newly emerged females also release a sex pheromone that attracts males. After feeding and mating for a day or two, the females burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Females lay 1 to 5 eggs before returning to plants to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs.
By noticing when the first adults arrive on a property, you can pick off and destroy these scouts that attract additional pests. The adults are less active in the early-morning or late-evening. They can be destroyed by dropping into a container of soapy water.
Control action is needed when grub populations are greater than 5-to-10 per square foot of turf. However, raccoons, skunks and moles may be active with fewer grubs in an area.
The grubs are best controlled when they are small and actively feeding near the soil surface, usually mid- to late-August. Control of grubs in late-fall or early-spring is probably best done by professional turf care experts.
For more information read fact sheet HYG-2001-91 : Control Of Japanese Beetle Adults And Grubs In Home Lawns.
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White Birches
White birches in the landscape frequently fall victim to the bronze birch borer. Control measures require carefully timed applications of potent pesticides where personal protection precautions must be followed carefully.
Avoiding the bronze birch borer is easier than trying to control them. Avoidance is as easy as not planting the highly susceptible white birch trees in sites for which the tree is not suited. Birches are shallow rooted trees with little ability to withstand warm, dry and or compacted soils. White birches planted in landscapes usually have two strikes against them from the start because of the conditions for which they are not adapted. Furthermore, the presence of grass up to the tree trunks further stresses the trees as they compete with the grass roots for water and nutrients. If you must have a white birch, then pick your planting site very carefully for a cool, moist, well- drained soil. Use a wood chip mulch over as much of the root zone under the canopy of the tree as possible, and plant away from paved areas where salt will be applied during winter.
Resistant species of white birch as well as the recommended river birch are available from nurseries. Heritage river birch has light colored bark that may be an acceptable substitute. Whitespire is a Japanese white-barked birch that is only attacked when under severe stress. Infestation of this tree by the bronze birch borer is limited under good growing conditions.
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Ground Covers
Ground covers are low-growing plants that spread over an area. They often are used to solve a problem with erosion or maintenance of steep slopes. Where shade is too dense for growing turfgrass, ground covers are suggested. Ground covers are recommended around trees where the tree's roots are at the surface and cause mowing problems.
Ground covers should not be thought of only as a solution for problem areas. They can be used to visually unify divergent components of a landscape. They are used to soften the edges of walks, steps, and drives. As a foreground, a ground cover can be the unifying factor in a collection of plants.
A ground cover defines space. It gives a crisp, permanent definition to the form of a garden. A low ground cover provides a transition between the lawn and taller plants. The aesthetic qualities of ground covers include attractive foliage, colorful flowers, and bright fruits. Careful selection of a ground cover will add to the year-round beauty of your landscape. For further information see the OSU Extension fact sheet HYG-1648-01 : Ground Covers for the Home Landscape.
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Gourds
Gourds add an ornamental and utilitarian aspect to your vegetable garden. Related to cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins, gourds are among the oldest known cultivated plants. There are basically two types of gourds: those which are usually highly colored ornamental types, and those which are the more functional utensil gourds of historical importance.
Don't be alarmed if the first several flowers on the gourd vines whither and do not produce fruit. Gourds and its relatives are among a group of plants that produce separate male and female flowers on the same plant. The first several flowers are male and produce no fruit. The plant then begins to produce both male and female flowers. Female flowers are distinguished by the presence of the immature fruit at the flower base. Be patient. Enough female flowers will be produced to provide for a high yield.
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Trees and Shrubs with All-Season Interest
Selecting plants that have attractive characteristics during all four seasons helps gardeners reach their goal of a well-planned landscape. Some plants have several attributes that exhibit ornamental qualities during each season of the year. While attractive flowers may be the showiest characteristic, persistent ornamental fruit may extend the display into winter, and a distinct growth habit or form will be attractive when the plant is not in bloom or bearing fruit.
Foliage can provide varying shades of green or distinct contrast with yellow, red or purple leaves. Patterned or textured bark is more evident when leaves have fallen and contrast nicely to a snowy background. Bold or unusual plant structure and form also are more evident after leaves drop in autumn.
The fact sheet Deciduous Trees and Shrubs with All-Season Interest lists trees and shrubs that retain at least one outstanding ornamental characteristic all year. Planning will result in combination of plants that complement each other throughout the year.
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Strawberries
It's getting to be that time of year for picking fresh strawberries. Whether you grow your own or make a trip to the local berry farm, nothing compares to the sweet, wet sensation of putting a just-picked strawberry in your mouth! Strawberries generally ripen within 28 to 30 days after first bloom. The time between first bloom and full bloom can be 11 to 12 days. There is a great increase in the number of ripe berries over the first 4-6 days of harvest.
Strawberries do not improve in quality after picking, so pick only those berries that are fully colored to optimal size and best flavor. The caps should be bright green, fresh looking, and fully attached. Avoid berries with large uncolored or seedy areas or those with a dull, soft look. Choose those with bright luster and firm, plump flesh.
Keep the harvested berries out of the sun and place them under refrigeration as soon as possible. Arrange the berries in a single layer on a cookie sheet or other shallow container, and use within a few days. Just before serving, wash them in gently flowing cold water in a colander. Drain and remove caps by giving them an easy twist with a strawberry huller or sharp knife. For more information see HYG-1424-98 Selecting, Storing & Serving Ohio Strawberries.
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Rabbits in the Garden
Wildlife can devour a vegetable garden. The adage of planting two for you and one for the wildlife doesn't work in most cases. Apparently the wildlife don't understand the concept of sharing. The garden is a bonanza to them and they'll eat as much as possible.
A nearly permanent solution to rabbit damage is to exclude rabbits from valued plants. A fence of chicken wire or woven wire, 1-inch mesh or smaller, will keep all rabbits out of small areas. A two-foot high fence will keep out cottontails. It should be tight to the ground or even slightly buried. Remember to consider expected snow depth when determining fence height for winter exclusion.
Another solution is to place wire cylinders around individual trees or shrubs. Anchor cylinders securely or rabbits will move or collapse them and gnaw through the wire openings.
A less permanent solution, but one that may provide temporary relief, is use of a repellent registered for rabbits. The most successful repellents are taste repellents and contain the active ingredient Thiram. Odor repellents, such as predator smells or strong, repulsive odors, are generally less effective than taste repellents.
Always follow label directions when using any pesticide, including repellents. Most rabbit repellents are not registered for use on plant parts destined for human consumption.
Removing living areas and protective cover will reduce damage by cottontailes. Remove brush piles, weed patches, rock piles, and other debris in which cottontailes hide. They simply cannot live in an area that does not offer hiding places from predators (including cats and dogs) or cover from severe weather.
Before shooting or trapping rabbits, check applicable game laws by contacting the Game and Parks Commission. In damage situations, they may grant permission to trap or shoot rabbits at times other than the legal hunting season.
As with most wildlife damage, a combination of methods may be best for controlling rabbit damage. There is no one best solution for all situations.
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Chrysanthemums
The garden chrysanthemum is one of the most exciting flowers that can be grown in the home landscape for late summer and fall display. There are a wide range of flower colors and forms available. But don't wait until fall to plant. Garden mums are planted in the spring from established cuttings, and are available in garden centers now.
Whether you just planted mums or have some planted from previous years, pinching is an important practice to produce compact plants with more blooms. New shoots should have the tops removed by pinching them off between the thumb and forefinger, leaving 2-3 leaves on the shoot. Pinching should be done whenever the shoots become 3-4 inches long. This will probably be once a month from May through July. Do not pinch after August 1, because flower buds will begin forming at this time. For more information on mums see HYG-1219 Growing Chrysanthemums.
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Leafhoppers
More than 100 cultivated and wild plants can be infested with leafhoppers. Important ones in the garden include potato, beans, eggplant, dahlia, rose, apple, Norway and sugar maple and birch leaves.
On potato, eggplant, dahlia and roses, the yellowing of leaf tips is called hopperburn. On beans and apples, leafhopper feeding may produce whitening of the foliage along with stunting, crinkling and curling. Damage to maples appears as stunted stems and clusters of stunted, off-color leaves.
Control is achieved with insecticidal soap and other insecticides. Check the label and be sure the chemical you choose is labeled for each of the host plants you intend to spray. Read and follow label directions exactly.
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June Drop of Fruits
"June drop" is the sudden shedding of fruit on apple trees that occurs about this time, and this can be disconcerting for the novice orchardist. In reality this is a natural thinning process, eliminating excess or potentially inferior fruit, and allowing better development of the fruit that remains. However, this natural thinning may be insufficient. Hand thinning of young apple, pear, plum and peach fruit is often recommended. Thin fruit when they are the size of the end of your little finger - about one-half inch in diameter. Start at one end of a branch and systematically remove fruit, leaving only one fruit every 6-8 inches. Keep in mind that only 7 or 8% of the tree's flowers are needed to set a full crop of fruit.
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Fertilizers
As you stand in the garden center looking at the countless bags and boxes of fertilizers, you may be a little puzzled, and rightfully so, as to the correct product to choose. Let's take a brief look at the major types of fertilizers. More information on fertilizing specific landscape and garden areas is available: Vegetable Gardens, Lawns and Landscape Plants.
The readily soluble types of fertilizers are good for houseplants, for applying at transplanting, or as a sidedressing after the first fruits are set on plants.
The common types of fertilizes, such as 5-10-10 or 12-12-12, are useful for applying plant nutrients to large areas. They can also be dissolved to use as a starter fertilizer for transplants or as a sidedressing. Dissolve 2 tablespoons in a gallon of water for this use. Small chips will remain undissolved in the bottom of the container. This is filler material that's added to the bag to make spreading easier and to help minimize fertilizer burn.
Organic fertilizers are less likely to burn your plants because they are not salts like the other two types. Organic fertilizers are most effective when the soil is warm and moist because bacterial action is required to break down the organic material to release nutrients for your plants. Organic fertilizers help add microbial life to the soil and improve its tilth to a degree. They can be somewhat more expensive than the common 5-10-10.
Regardless of the fertilizer you choose, be sure to apply it according to results of a soil test . Many soil test results indicate that gardeners are applying too much fertilizer. And, this practice can be detrimental to the growth of plants. Also, remember that fertilizers will not compensate for poorly drained soil, poor plant material, improperly placed plants, poor cultural practices, or the wrong acid level, or pH, of the soil.
For soil testing,we recommend the University of Massachusetts Soil Lab. The basic fee is $10 and their report will tell you how much lime, if any, and fertilizer is needed to provide the right amount of nutrients for your plants.
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Clematis
Clematis have a reputation for being difficult to grow, however, like any other plant, if its needs are met by the site and proper care, it will thrive. Clematis require full sun to grow best (6+ hours direct sun per day) though some dappled shade during the heat of the day is beneficial. Flowers of some red and blue, large-flowered hybrids and the bicolors fade badly if they get too much sun and these should be planted in eastern exposures or partial shade. The site should be open enough to allow for air movement around the plants.
Soil should be rich and well-draining with a pH close to neutral (7.0). Though the plant's stems and foliage should be in sun, the roots like a cool, moist environment. Most clematis will require staking so the twining leaf petioles can cling and climb upward, though some gardeners choose to let the plants sprawl over the ground, over woodpiles, other plants, etc. For more information see HYG-1247-94 Growing Clematis.
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Watering Lawns and Gardens
We usually experience enough dry weather during the summer months to force gardeners to water their lawns and gardens. Gardeners can save water and money and possibly reduce disease problems by watering during certain periods of the day.
Sprinklers are the best way to water lawns. The best time to water the lawn is in early morning. Gentle winds, cool temperatures and high relative humidity then will result in little water lost to evaporation. Watering in the morning will also mean that the leaf blades will be dry by nightfall. Wet foliage at night provides a good environment for the start of fungal and bacterial diseases.
Vegetable and flower gardens should be mulched to conserve soil moisture. When watering becomes necessary, irrigation equipment that applies water directly to the soil is the most efficient and will cause fewer disease problems. Soaker hoses are most efficient if they are covered with the mulch. Drip systems work well for plants that are widely spaced in the vegetable of flower bed. Water wands deliver water to the base of the plant for the gardener who wants to take a more active role in the process. Finally, removing the spray nozzle and just allowing the water to run very slowly onto the soil around larger or permanent plants (rhubarb or asparagus, for example) is another method. Again, the most efficient time to irrigate flowers and vegetables is in the morning. If a method is used that minimizes water getting on the foliage, evening is also a good time. However, watering then will also be helpful for slugs!
Small fruits, such as strawberries, just as with the lawn, should be watered in the morning.
Trees and shrubs should be mulched under their canopies with 2 to 4 inches of wood chips or shredded bark. Keep the mulch away from the base of the tree. The idea is to cover the soil to exclude weed growth. But, keep the mulch away from the trunk as this can increase insect, rodent and disease damage. Use soaker hoses, water wands or remove the nozzle and allow water to slowly run.
Your goal in watering any of these areas is to soak the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Then, allow the soil to dry before watering again. The rule of thumb in watering the landscape is to water deeply and weekly -- not nightly and lightly!
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Mulching the Vegetable Garden
Are the weeds growing just as fast, or even faster, than your vegetables in the garden? Weeds can make the vegetable garden an unsightly place to visit and will reduce the quality and quantity of your harvest.
Mulching is an option to routine cultivation and hand pulling of these volunteer plants. Mulching involves covering the soil around the vegetables so that light cannot reach the soil surface. When done correctly, this eliminates all but the most persistent weeds.
Many different materials can be used around vegetables. Black plastic is most effective around large and widely spaced plants, such as squashes, tomatoes, eggplant and peppers. And these crops really benefit from the weed control and extra warmth the black plastic provides. However, black plastic also provides an ideal environment for slugs. During wet growing seasons, these pests can present problems almost equal to that caused by weeds.
Organic alternatives to plastic mulch include herbicide-free grass clippings, weed-free straw or the white pages of the newspaper. Organic mulches help moderate soil temperature, reduce evaporation from the soil, and can be incorporated into the soil or placed in the compost pile at the end of the season as a source of organic matter. Because of their soil improving capability, organic mulches are recommended. Grass clippings and straw can be placed around all established plants easily and quickly. Newspaper sections must be anchored to the soil with rocks or soil to hold it in place.
For best results, remove all weeds from the garden prior to mulching. Thoroughly irrigate the garden prior to putting the mulch in place or time its placement after a soaking rain. If your choice is black plastic, cut slits in the sheeting to allow for air and water movement into the soil. Carefully anchor the plastic to the soil prior to planting the garden area. Grass clippings and straw will need to be spread at least 2 inches thick to be effective. And, these mulches will need to be replenished during the season as they decay.
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Pruning Broadleaf Evergreens
Most broadleaf evergreens, such as rhododendron, azalea, Pieris, evergreen barberry, and holly, require limited amounts of pruning on a selective basis. This would be done to improve or enhance the natural habit of the shrub and/or keep it in scale with its surroundings. For the least sacrifice of bloom, prune shortly after flowering but before the next year's flower buds are set in July. Cut back any out-of-place branches to a lateral or, if heading back a young vigorous branch, be sure to cut above a few remaining leaves.
Deadheading , or removing spent flowers, can be done by simply snapping out the faded flower truss with your fingers, while holding the branch steady with your other hand. This should be done as soon as the flowers begin to fade. Use care to avoid damaging the vegetative buds or new shoots that form directly below the flower heads.
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Integrated Pest Management
Good control of garden and landscape pests can be achieved through a strategy used more and more by commercial crop growers and backyard gardeners: Integrated Pest Management or IPM. This is a system that includes proper pest identification and selection of the best method or combination of methods to correct a problem.
Integrated means that several methods of pest management may be used together to achieve the best control. Pest can refer to any organism that is harmful or destructive. And, management means maintaining pest levels below a damaging level, not necessarily killing every single pest.
A basic IPM principle is that pesticides should be used only when necessary and in a way that won't hurt the environment. A successful IPM program begins with routine monitoring of the landscape and gardens and accurate identification of the pest problem. A number of control strategies are available to controls many pests. These include cultural, biological and synthetic chemical controls.
Cultural controls work by making the environment unsuitable for pests. Cultural control begins with selecting plant varieties that are resistant or tolerant to pests in our area and providing the best possible growing conditions.
Biological control is the reduction of pests by living organisms. Naturally occurring beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, can provide good control of some pests and is an example of a biological control. Biological insecticides make use of living organisms or extracts from living organisms to control pests. Common biological pesticides are Bt, beneficial nematodes and pyrethrum. Biological controls also encompass encouraging natural predators and beneficial insects.
Chemical pesticides work fast in emergency situations. Synthetic chemical pesticides are effective when used properly, but should be used as a last resort because of wide range of beneficial and destructive insects they kill. All pesticides should be applied according to label directions.
Good gardeners are looking at other ways of controlling pests besides reaching for the pesticides immediately. This extra investigation increases their knowledge and helps reduce the use of chemicals in our environment.
Also see Extension Fact Sheet HYG-2159-96 "Integrated Pest Management (IPM) In and Around the Home."
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Side-dressing Vegetables
Side-dressing is simply applying fertilizer to garden vegetables during the growing season after the plants have become established. Usually fertilizer applied at this time is placed in a band about 6-12 inches from the plants, or placed on the soil surface and carefully worked in with a light raking. Be sure to wash off any dry fertilizer that gets on the foliage, and be careful not to disturb plant roots. In dry weather, water the soil to make the fertilizer available to the roots more quickly.
A side-dressing of fertilizer should only be applied if plants do not seem to be growing well or foliage is a yellow-green color. One side-dressing per season is recommended. Applying extra fertilizer mid-season on a regular basis can result in excessive amounts of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. The usual rate for a side-dressing is about one-half pound of a 10-10-10 or equivalent fertilizer per 100 feet of row. Bloodmeal is an organic alternative.
Timing of side-dressing is different for different crops. Apply to leafy crops once they are well-established; sweet corn when plants are about 12" tall and at tasseling; tomatoes, eggplants and peppers once the first fruit have set; broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage once buds or heads have begun to form; and vine crops once the vines begin to run.
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Lindens
Littleleaf Linden is an excellent tree for just about anywhere. It can even be pruned into hedges. Lindens transplant easily; prefer a moist, well-drained, fertile soil; full sun; are pH adaptable; and are quite pollution tolerant. Te littleleaf linden is intolerant of mechanical injury but if protected from damage it can survive well in urban areas. For this plant to function, it must be grown in unrestricted root space with protection from mechanical injury. Under these conditions, 'Greenspire,' 'Chanticleer' and 'Bicentennial' are good selections.
Lindens bloom in late June or early July with small yellowish, fragrant flowers which are not conspicuous but extremely attractive to bees. People that are allergic to honey bees would do well to avoid this plant. The service life of this plant is 20 years.
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Blossom-End Rot
Gardeners are understandably upset when the blossom ends of their tomatoes turn black and leathery rather than a nice even red. This is a condition called blossom-end rot. Blossom-end rot is not a plant disease, but a growth disorder linked to the amount of calcium in the fruit. All plants need calcium to develop properly. When tomato plants are growing rapidly in June and early July, the fruit does not always get the amount of calcium it needs for proper development, even though there's plenty of calcium available in the soil. Instead, the calcium gets diverted to rapidly growing leaves, shoots and other parts of the plant. Blossom-end rot is usually linked to fluctuating soil moisture. When this happens, blossom end rot occurs. This is usually a problem with the first fruits produced by the rapidly growing plant. Once the plant slows, the problem usually disappears.
What can be done to control the problem? One thing to try is to mulch your tomato plants. This will help maintain an even soil moisture level. Alternating dry and wet soil contributes to the problem. We usually see a lot of the problem during drought years. Now is a good time to put down a layer of organic mulch around your plants.
Second, water your plants deeply and weekly. Third, hold back on the nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen stimulates leafy growth and therefore contributes to the lack of calcium available to the fruit. If you have been amending your soil yearly with organic matter, your tomato plants probably need no fertilizer other than the starter fertilizer used at planting time. Finally, be patient. As mentioned before, this condition most often is seen on the first fruits of rapidly growing plants. Once plant growth slows, the condition will disappear.
See Extension Fact Sheet HYG-3117-96 "Blossom-End Rot of Tomato, Pepper and Eggplant."
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Green Manure Crops
A practice that is not used nearly enough by gardeners is growing green manure crops. A green manure crop is grown to be turned back into the soil while its green. Green manure crops provide many benefits. They reduce weed growth, keep the soil friable, prevent soil erosion by wind or water, reduce leaching of nutrients from soil as their roots absorb minerals for growth. And, best of all, they stimulate bacterial activity in the soil when they're turned under. That is, they bring life to the soil. Growing green manure crops is one of the easiest ways to improve your soil organically. The only cost is the seeds and the time it takes to sprinkle and rake them into the soil. I don't even recommend fertilizing the green manure crop. Let its growth be an indication to you of how fertile the soil is.
Gardeners often plant annual rye, oats, hairy vetch or winter rye in the late summer or early fall to protect their garden soil during the winter. But, green manure crops can also be planted during the growing season. Perhaps you don't plant your entire garden with spring crops. Instead of letting the weeds grow on the unused ground, grow a cover crop of any of the crops listed above or red clover or rapeseed. Mustard is another good spring green manure crop. Mustard also produces nice greens for our tables in addition to food for the soil. Buckwheat can be planted during the summer months; it is not frost hardy.
Green manure crops should be turned under just as they're beginning to flower. Then, wait at least two weeks before planting another crop of any kind. This will give the soil bacteria time to break down the plant matter and release nutrients for your crops.
Green manure crops of white Dutch clover that grows to just 12 inches in height is being used as a living mulch around tall crops or those grown on a trellis. It is also a very good crop to plant between raised beds as it keeps the weeds down and doesn't require mowing.
Red clover can be planted between rows of knee-high corn and left to grow as a living mulch. Being winter hardy, it will limit weed growth and protect the soil until its turned over next year. Seeds for green manure crops are widely available through mail-order seed companies and feed stores.
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Fertilizing Asparagus and Rhubarb
After the asparagus and rhubarb harvest period comes to an end, it is helpful to apply fertilizer to keep the crowns strong and healthy. For rhubarb, apply one-quarter lb. of a nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium nitrate (33.5% Nitrogen), per 100 sq. ft. of garden area. For asparagus, apply one half lb. ammonium nitrate per 50 feet of row, after snapping all the spears off at ground level.
Established rhubarb beds should be divided every five to seven years or when the stalks become thin. A properly maintained asparagus planting will be productive for 15 years or more. For more details on asparagus see HYG-1603-94 "Growing Asparagus in the Home Garden". Look for an updated fact sheet on rhubarb later this year.
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Chinese Cabbage
Chinese cabbage performs best as a fall crop. It has a sweeter, milder flavor than true cabbage. The crisp, tender leaves may be used like lettuce in salads, shredded for cole slaw, steamed, or stir-fried.
Sow the seed of Chinese cabbage at a depth of 1/4 to « inch in mid-August. Rows should be spaced 18 to 24 inches apart. Thin plants when 1 to 2 inches tall. Within the row, plants should be spaced 12 to 18 inches apart.
Chinese cabbage is normally harvested when the heads are fully developed. However, plants may be harvested as greens anytime prior to maturity. Once harvested, Chinese cabbage may be stored in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator.
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Garden Hoses
Hoses are an extension of your plumbing system and should be treated accordingly. They are normally sold in lengths of 25, 50, 75, and 100 feet. Shorter hoses have greater per-foot costs than longer ones, but are easier to drain and coil. The volume of water delivered by a hose per minute drops as its length increases. For the fastest water flow, use a hose that is as close to the exact length you need rather than one that is too long.
The construction of the hose plays a big role in performance and endurance. Rubber hoses are the most flexible and stay pliable at the lowest temperatures, but they are also the most expensive. High-quality reinforced vinyl hoses are also flexible at low temperatures, and are resistant to abrasion and bursting. Good quality hoses will have heavy brass couplings. If you can't find a hose with brass couplings, galvanized steel would be the next choice. The least desirable would be plastic.
The most popular hose diameter is 5/8-inch. Larger diameter hoses, such as 3/4 inch and 1 inch are also available. Unfortunately, they are also heavier to handle. The smaller the diameter, the less water the hose will deliver in a given period. When coupling hoses of different diameters together, attach the largest one closest to the faucet. The smaller hose will help maintain pressure as the water is forced into it.
Proper care of your hose will lengthen its life considerably. Never let a hose kink. Any kink becomes a weak point and the hose will tend to kink there repeatedly. Coil up the hose after each use and put it away. This will reduce its exposure to ultraviolet light and the resulting photodegradation.
A commonly asked question about hoses is how much water does a hose deliver. Most household water pressure runs about 40 pounds per square inch (psi). A 100 foot long, 5/8-inch diameter hose will deliver 11 gallons of water a minute.
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Propagating by Leaf Cuttings
Successfully starting plants from leaf cuttings is an easy way to experience one of nature's miracles, totipotency. Totipotency is the ability of each and every plant cell to regenerate an entirely new plant. Leaf cuttings can be made from the leaf blade and petiole, leaf blade alone, or sections of the leaf. Many houseplants such as rex and rhizomatous begonias, African violets, streptocarpus, gloxinias and sansevierias are willing candidates.
To start a plant from leaf sections, select a shallow pan to hold the cuttings. A sweater box with a transparent lid works well. Wash it thoroughly with diluted bleach and allow it to dry. Fill the box with 3 to 4 inches of moist, gritty builder's sand.
Water the donor plant well the day before removing the leaf. Using a sharp knife or razor, cut off a mature, healthy leaf from the plant. Young leaves wilt too easily and old leaves do not root well. Lay the leaf on a flat cutting surface. Cut the petiole (leaf stalk) from the base of the leaf and slice the leaf into wedges. Each wedge should have a vein in the center and a piece of sinus (the place where the leaf and leaf stalk meet) at its tip. A rex begonia leaf usually produces 5 wedges.
Dip the sinus end of the leaf into rooting hormone and tap off the excess. Sink the wedge into the sand so that a third of the leaf is buried. The remainder of the leaf should stand upright. Line the wedges up so there is at least an inch between them from all directions. An alternative to slicing the leaf into wedges is make a cut in the leaf across each vein and then pin the leaf to the sand using thin wire or bobby pins. Water lightly and cover the box. Place the box in an area that receives bright indirect light or about a foot away from grow lights. Maintain temperatures of about 65 degrees. Check the box regularly and water when the surface of the sand becomes dry. New plants will emerge from the cut areas in a few weeks.
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Summer Care of Roses
To successfully grow hybrid tea roses, gardeners must give them considerable care. Important cultural practices during the summer months include watering, fertilizing, deadheading, and pest control.
Hybrid tea roses require watering during hot, dry weather. The actual amount and frequency depend upon weather conditions and soil type. In most gardens, a deep soaking every two weeks is sufficient. Soak the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches, applying the water directly to the soil. Overhead watering wets the foliage and increases disease problems. If overhead watering is unavoidable, the best time to water is during the morning. This allows the foliage to dry quickly.
A mulch around the roses helps to conserve soil moisture and control weeds. Possible mulches include wood chips or shredded bark. Spread 2 to 4 inches of mulch around the base of each plant or over the entire bed.
To encourage healthy, vigorous growth and abundant bloom, fertilize hybrid tea roses three times a year: first, in early spring immediately after pruning; second, during the first bloom period; and third, in mid to late July. Do not fertilize after July 31 because it may produce succulent new growth that may not harden sufficiently before winter. A general purpose fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, should produce excellent results. Apply 1/4 cup evenly around each plant, lightly cultivate the fertilizer into the soil, and then water thoroughly.
Removing spent flowers will conserve the plant's energy and encourage repeat bloom. On a recently planted rose, remove the faded flower above the uppermost three-leaflet leaf. When deadheading established roses, cut the stem back to a five-leaflet leaf. Retain at least two five-leaflet leaves on each shoot. Use sharp tools (hand shears or knife) to remove faded flowers. Cut about 1/4 inch above the leaf with the cut made parallel to the angle of the leaf.
A rigorous spray program through the summer months will be necessary to control insect and disease pests. Combination sprays that include an insecticide and one or more fungicides are available in garden centers and nurseries. Disease problems, such as black spot, are most severe during periods of rainy weather. The key to disease control is prevention. Begin applying fungicides before symptoms appear and reapply as directed on the label. Spray both the upper and lower leaf surfaces to prevent disease infection.
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Harvesting Cabbages and Related Crops
Vegetables must be harvested at the proper stage of maturity in order to obtain the highest quality produce. Broccoli should be harvested when the head is fully developed, but before the small yellow flower buds start to open. At harvest, the terminal head should be tight, blue-green, and approximately 6 to 7 inches in diameter. Several smaller side heads (about 1 to 3 inches across) will develop in the axils of the leaves after the central head is removed.
Cauliflower heads exposed to sunlight become cream colored and coarse in texture. To obtain high quality cauliflower, the heads must be blanched by loosely tying the outer leaves over the heads when approximately 2 to 3 inches in diameter. The leaves can be tied over the heads with twine or cloth strips. The exclusion of light or blanching will keep the heads white and tender.
Cauliflower should be harvested when the heads are smooth, firm, and compact. Full sized heads may be 6 to 8 inches across. Over mature heads will begin to open up and become "ricey."
The harvest of cabbage may begin when the heads are firm and the size of a softball. Mature cabbage should be harvested when the head is solid and tight, before they crack or split. Splitting is caused by excessive water uptake; the resulting pressure splits the head. Splitting of mature heads may be prevented by pulling the plant upward and gently twisting. Some of the roots will be broken, thereby reducing water uptake.
Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage may be placed in a perforated plastic bag and stored in the refrigerator.
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Pansies
The summer garden may not be completely planted yet and here I am discussing fall planting. Pansies are popular bedding plants in the garden. They are available in almost every flower color imaginable, from vivid yellows and blues to delicate pastel colors and mixes. Flowers can be solid, bicolored, or possess those famous faces. Flower size varies from over two inches across to the one-half inch blooms found in the viola mini pansies. Breeders have been trying to develop cultivars that possess better heat tolerance. They are also developing cultivars that will overwinter and bloom well during a second season. It is this feature that makes pansies all the more interesting.
Botanically, pansies are biennials or perennials, but are grown as annuals by most gardeners. They can reseed themselves and, if protected overwinter, can survive to bloom a second year. An overwintering evaluation being conducted at the University of Minnesota's North Central Experiment Station in Grand Rapids has yielded some useful results. Pansy seed is started in late June for transplanting in mid to late August (pansies need seven to nine weeks from seeding to transplanting). This allows for good plant establishment before winter. In northern Minnesota, a dependable snow cover is usually possible. However, here in Ohio where snow cover in not guaranteed, a straw mulch applied in November should help ensure winter survival.
After three years of spring evaluation, Minnesota researchers have found that by mid May most plants are showing good bloom, and by late-May they look excellent and are blooming profusely (in Ohio the pansies should be flowering by late April to early May). Most continue blooming profusely into July. When comparing spring and fall plantings, both made the previous year, the fall plantings generally have been more uniform in growth and bloom, have had slightly smaller plant sizes, and have had slightly larger flowers than their spring planted companions.
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Wisterias
Two species of wisteria are typically grown in home gardens; Wisteria sinensis or Chinese wisteria, and Wisteria floribunda or Japanese wisteria. The Chinese wisteria is the more popular plant due to its flowering habit. It grows to a height of 25 feet or more and has flower clusters six inches to a foot in length, which open before the foliage has expanded.
In order to bloom well, wisteria require full sun (six or more hours of direct sun per day) and a deep. moderately fertile, moist soil that does not dry out excessively. They will adapt to most soils, though they prefer a neutral to slightly acid soil pH of 6.0-7.0 for best results. Some type of support will be necessary as mature plants can be quite heavy. For more details HYG-1246-94 "Growing Wisteria".
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Harvesting Small Fruits
Small fruits, such as raspberries, are highly perishable. Harvesting the fruit at the right stage of maturity and proper storage are vital to insure high quality. If possible, harvest in the early morning hours before field heat builds up in the fruit. Small quantities of fresh fruit can be stored in the refrigerator for a short time. Surplus fruit should be canned or frozen. While personal preferences vary somewhat, the following criteria should help you decide when to harvest the small fruit crops at their peak of quality and flavor.
Fully ripe currants are slightly soft, juicy, and develop the characteristic color of the variety. Most currant varieties are red at maturity, a few are white. For jellies and jams, pick the currants when they are still firm and not completely ripe. Harvest currants by picking the fruit clusters rather than the individual berries. After picking, the individual berries can be stripped from the stems. Currants can be stored in the refrigerator for approximately two weeks.
Fully ripe elderberries are plump, slightly soft, and dull purple in color. For jelly, harvest the berries when only half ripe. Elderberries are borne in large, flat clusters. The berries mature in mid-summer. Elderberries can be stored in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.
For jams, jellies, and pies, most gardeners pick gooseberries when they have reached full size, but are not fully ripe. At this stage, the fruit are green, tart, and still quite hard. Others prefer to allow the fruit to ripen to a pinkish color and sweeter flavor. Gooseberries can be refrigerated for approximately two weeks.
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Harvesting Grapes and Raspberries
Color, size, sweetness, and flavor are the most useful indicators of grape maturity. Depending on the variety, berry color changes from green to blue, red, or white as the grapes approach maturity.
Color alone, however, should not be the sole basis for harvesting grapes. The berries of many varieties change color long before they are fully ripe. At maturity, individual berries are full size and slightly less firm to the touch. As a final test, taste a few grapes for sweetness when berry size and color indicate the fruit is approaching maturity. Harvest grape clusters when the berries are sweet. When harvesting grapes, remove clusters with a knife or hand shears. Sound grapes can be stored in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for up to two months.
Raspberries are ripe when the fruit is fully colored. Also, ripe berries slip easily from the receptacles, which remain on the plant. Raspberries are very perishable. They should be harvested every two or three days, handled carefully, and refrigerated or frozen immediately. Raspberries can be stored for only three to five days in the refrigerator.
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Harvesting Strawberries and Blueberries
Strawberries are fully ripe when uniformly red. Pick the berries with the cap and stem attached to retain firmness and quality. Pinch the stem off about 1/4 inch above the cap. Don't pull them off. Strawberries can be stored in the refrigerator. Use within 2 to 5 days. Strawberries should be picked about every other day in warm weather, every 3 to 4 days in cool weather. The harvest period for some June-bearing varieties may last three to four weeks.
Do not harvest blueberries until fully ripe. The best indications of ripeness are color, flavor, and picking ease. Fully ripe blueberries are uniformly blue in color, have a good flavor, and separate easily from the plant. Blueberries should not be harvested by color alone as the berry is often blue for some time before being fully ripe. After harvesting, store blueberries in the refrigerator.
When harvesting small fruits, pick and the handle the fruit carefully. Rough treatment during harvest will damage the fruit and reduce its storage life and lead to greater spoilage.
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Mulching with Grass Clippings and Straw
While watering is often necessary during hot, dry weather, gardeners can conserve soil moisture and reduce water usage by placing a mulch around landscape plantings and in fruit and vegetable gardens. An added benefit is that the organic material will eventually rot to improve the soil. Several organic materials may be used as mulches.
Allow lawn clippings to dry before applying to garden areas. Fresh, green material will settle and form a dense mat. It may also produce an unpleasant odor. If the lawn has been treated with herbicides for weed control, don't use the clippings until the lawn has been mowed two or three times after treatment. Grass clippings are not long-lasting and are best used in the vegetable garden or annual flower bed.
Straw that is free from crop and weed seed is an excellent mulch for the vegetable garden and strawberry bed. Straw may provide a winter habitat for mice and other rodents. Therefore, caution should be exercised when using straw around trees and shrubs. Straw is a good winter mulch for strawberries and tender herbaceous perennials.
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Mulching with Leaves and Newspaper
Gardeners can conserve soil moisture and reduce water usage by placing a mulch around landscape plantings and in fruit and vegetable gardens. Several organic materials may be used. Leaves are readily available in the fall. They should be shredded or composted before being applied as a mulch. Shredded or partially composted leaves do not mat down as readily as whole leaves, are less likely to blow away in the wind, and decompose more quickly. Shredded or composted leaves are an excellent mulch for vegetable gardens, raspberry plantings, perennial flower beds, and around trees and shrubs.
Shredded newspaper or whole sheets may be used in the vegetable garden. Most newspaper publishers use organic inks so gardeners need not worry about lead contamination. When placing sheets between plant rows in the garden, weigh them down to prevent them from blowing away in the wind.
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Mulching with Sawdust and Wood Chips
Gardeners can conserve soil moisture and reduce water usage by placing a mulch around landscape plantings and in fruit and vegetable gardens. An added benefit is that the organic material will eventually rot to improve the soil. Several organic materials may be used as mulches. Sawdust is easy to apply, weed free, and decomposes slowly. Generally, sawdust should be allowed to age or weather for a year before being applied. If fresh sawdust if used, make sure the sawdust doesn't cake. Do not use sawdust from treated lumber in the yard and garden.
Wood chips are an excellent mulching material which may be available from local arborists. The material is obtained by passing tree and shrub trimmings through a mechanical chipper. They are generally used in landscape plantings, such as around trees and shrubs and in perennial beds.
Commercially packaged bark mulches are available shredded or as chips, nuggets, or chunks. They are sometimes available in bulk quantities from nurseries and landscape companies. Bark mulches are attractive, weed free, and decompose slowly. Bark mulches are best used around trees and shrubs and in perennial beds.
Sawdust, wood chips, and bark mulches can be safely used around the home. These materials will not "attract" termites to the house.
Sawdust, wood chips, bark, and ground corncobs may deplete nitrogen in the soil during the process of decomposition. The bacteria in the soil that gradually break down the organic materials require large quantities of nitrogen. Since the woody materials contain only small amounts of nitrogen, the bacteria may utilize some of the available nitrogen in the soil. A possible nitrogen deficiency can be prevented by sprinkling a small amount of complete fertilizer, such as 5-10-5, on the soil surface prior to applying the mulch. Thereby providing sufficient amounts of nitrogen to meet the needs of both the bacteria and plants.
The type of mulch determines the depth of the material. Apply most organic mulches 2 to 4 inches in depth. The selection of the mulch should be based on availability, cost, appearance, function, and durability.
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Storing Surplus Seeds
Now that the bulk of garden planting is completed, don't let those surplus seeds go the waste. Moisture and high humidity can reduce the viability of seeds. Seeds store best in cold, dry conditions and many vegetable seeds will remain viable for 3 - 5 years if stored properly. The best place for storage is in your refrigerator. Put the seed packets in a freezer bag, seal it, mark on the outside the types of seeds enclosed and put it in your refrigerator. When it's time to plant again, take the bag from the refrigerator and let it stand at room temperature, until the bag and its contents warm up to room temperature, before opening.
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Lacebugs
If the leaves of your azalea are covered with a mass of tiny yellow specks, check the underside of the leaves for black, varnish-like spots. This is the excrement that lace bugs leave when feeding on the underside of the foliage. These insects also cause damage on rhododendron, cotoneaster, pyracantha and many other trees and shrubs. A strong jet of water will knock lace bugs off the foliage. Natural predators include lacewings, mites and assassin bugs. Spray with insecticidal soap to control lace bugs without hurting these natural predators. Spray with soap only when you see the pest; it is a contact poison and has no residual effect. Standard insecticides for control of lace bugs are also available. Read and follow label directions exactly. Monitor your plants for repeat infestations. For more information on the lace bug, see Extension Fact Sheet HYG-2150-10 "Lace Bug."
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Planting Under Trees
Any activity that damages a mature tree's roots will result in the death of a corresponding portion of the branches of the tree. Most experts recommend damaging no more than 30% of the roots of a vigorous, healthy tree. You must determine the health and vigor of your tree. Trees can be compared to humans in that they are more vigorous when young. As they age, growth slows and disturbances are more stressful.
Changing the soil level over roots is very risky because trees absorb oxygen directly through roots. Unlike humans, trees cannot transport the oxygen absorbed by leaves to their roots. The roots must absorb their own oxygen from the soil. The deeper the soil, the less oxygen available. Remember, most of the roots that absorb oxygen, water and nutrients are found in the top 12 inches of the soil. These absorbing roots are typically found in a band extending from several feet in from the drip line to several feet beyond the drip line. Roots closer to the trunk anchor and support the tree.
Spreading vines or perennial plants are probably the best options to avoid damaging large sections of the roots. Invasive plants, such as goutweed, bugleweed and Japanese honeysuckle will compete with the tree's roots.
Do not try to plant the entire area under the tree. Group plants together, disturbing as few roots as possible. Prepare the soil with a sharp spade, not a rototiller. Unplanted areas under the tree should be mulched.
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Ticks
Of the 12 species of ticks known to occur in Ohio, the most frequently encountered is the American dog tick. The adult American dog tick feeds on a wide variety of medium to large size mammals, such as raccoons, ground hogs, opossum, dogs, and humans. As larvae and nymphs, ticks feed on small mammals (mice and shrews) and birds. The second most commonly encountered tick in Ohio is the ground hog tick. This species can be found on a variety of medium to large mammals (ground hogs, raccoons, dogs, cats, mink, fox, and humans). It is probably a nest parasite or at least found near animal burrows. It is believed that pets carry these ticks from the field to where humans can pick them up.
An occasional pest, the Brown Dog tick, feeds almost exclusively on dogs and is found in homes and kennels. Brown Dog ticks are relatively rare. Records indicate that they are usually found on dogs that have been recently kenneled.
Ticks can transmit Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and Lyme Disease. To avoid ticks, do the following:
•Stay out of weedy areas.
•Make frequent personal inspections.
•Examine children at least twice daily. Pay special attention to the head and neck.
•Check clothing for crawling ticks.
•Keep dogs tied or penned in a mowed area as they may bring ticks into the home or yard.
•Check them daily. If ticks are found, remove ticks promptly.
•If exposure to a tick-infested area is unavoidable, tuck pant cuffs into socks or boots. Wear light-colored clothing to make it easier to find crawling ticks.
For more information including the proper procedure for removing ticks, see Extension Fact Sheet HYG-2073-07 "Ticks."
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